Banks Lake Trip Report

Oct 26, 2011 No Comments by

This past summer I took the family to Banks Lake, Washington, and thought I would post a few pics from the trip. The area consists of a granite intrusion into the Grand Coulee at the end of Lake Roosevelt. Bring your swimming shorts, canoe, and “A” game to tackle some of the impossible hard granite [...]

Featured, Sport Climbing, Trad Climbing, Trip reports, Washington Read more

10 Things a Belayer Should Never Say

Oct 24, 2011 No Comments by

10 things a belayer should never say while you’re on lead: Pretend you don’t suck. How does this AT thingee work again? While staring at a Grigri: “Oh Oh. You’re the hand!” Whoops. You’re secure right? Hold on a sec, my phone’s ringing. You’re ass looks fat in that harness. INCOMING! Did you know your [...]

Featured, Humour Read more

Devil’s Dome – A Trip Report

Sep 21, 2011 No Comments by

Story by Craig Stowell This is a story about two Dads making a return to climbing and training really hard (for busy Dads that is) this summer, culminating in a long-overdue trip into the backcountry after many years of absence due to kids, family, work, homesteading, life, etc. Devil’s Dome is an amazing Shark Fin [...]

Featured, The Valhallas, Trad Climbing, Trip reports Read more

A 4-year-old lead climber

Sep 11, 2011 No Comments

Remember what sports you were playing when you were four years old? For most of us we splashed about in kiddie pools, played tag in our yards, maybe got in a game of soccer or two. (If you call 14 urchins running haphazardly around a field chasing bugs “soccer.”) If you grew up in the [...]

Read more

HUMP DAY – proof the Kootenay region is the greatest

Nov 05, 2010 12 Comments

Two Nelson, British Columbia residents, prove why they live in the best place on the planet by going backcountry skiing, rock climbing, lake swimming and mountain biking … all in one day and all within 20 kilometres of the city.

Read more

Canada’s First Pub-side Climbing Area (it’s in Robson)

Oct 14, 2010 No Comments

So after countless years of climbers skulking around the Lions Head in Robson, scrambling up some scrappy trad lines hopeful that they wouldn’t get caught, the land owner of the Lions Head Pub has decided to give the green light to climbing on his property. And by green light, I mean he’s decided to turn [...]

Read more

Getting swarmed by hornets on 1st Ascent

Oct 14, 2010 2 Comments

On October 6th, 2010, Chris Swetland and Aaron Kristiansen put up a new route called “Face to Face,” a 5.10d sport route on the Raspberry Wall, Arrow Lakes. Just as he started the route Chris kicked a hornet’s nest and he and Aaron were swarmed. Turn up the volume to enjoy the profanity and hilarity.

Read more

Madame Butterfly 5.10a sport – Waterfall Wall

Aug 05, 2010 No Comments

Madame Butterfly 5.10a sport (two stars, we’re not biased!). FA Mike Curran and Hamish Mutch, July 24, 2010; 60 m rope required (pitches are just under 30 m each) Approach – from access trail for the left side climbs at Waterfall Wall, go across sloping ledge and follow trail which dips down across sloping grass [...]

Read more

Onion Creek Climbing Area, near Rockport, WA

Jul 25, 2010 2 Comments

Onion Creek is reported to have a few of the best cracks in the Kootenays. Here’s what Keith Robbins says in his short guide to the Onion Creek area: Onion Creek is mostly a granite crack climbing area, although some bolts are starting to go in. There is a bit of climbing at most grades. [...]

Read more

6 New Routes in one weekend? Oh my Gawd!

May 02, 2010 8 Comments

It never ceases to amaze me that I live in a place where I can drive from my home and be at the base of crag in few minutes, only to step off a paved road, walk 20 meters to a rock face and embark on a ground up first accent of a naturally clean [...]

Read more

Gimli’s South Ridge

Aug 12, 2004 4 Comments

Mt Gimli is the centerpiece (centerpeak?) of the Valhallas. First climbed in 1973 by P. Koedt, P. Rowat, N. Rowat, G. Shannon, and J. Hamlin, the South Ridge is one of the best climbs of it’s grade in the Kootenays. It’s certainly one of the most famous. This was my, and my partner Scott Meyers, [...]

Read more