After a weeks of waiting for bolts and a new drill bit, Sonja Podstaswky and I finished 3 new routes at the Pub Wall. The routes all have varied climbing from steep, juggy moves to long passages across rolling slab. Approach: Park at the Lionshead Pub in Robson. Walk 2 meters (6 seconds) to base [...]
This is another great problem by Jesse Redden in the Main Room. The problem gets its name from the crapload of rusty metal and broken glass that littered its base before a major clean up effort made this thing safe to climb.
I’m not sure if Mikkel, a world class whitewater kayaker, got the first scent or just did all the work cleaning it, but here is a video of Stewart climbing it. This might be V2.
I think this is the best dyno problem so far in the Kootenays. I’d love to be proven wrong though. Caleb figured this one out, taking a pretty boring warm up and making it way more fun.
So far, this is the hardest problem in Robson. Scott Jeffery defied what seemed like a long reach to grab the first and only ascent of this problem. Stewart, to his credit, showed everyone, including Scott, how to do the top-out.
You’ll find this problem in the Lionshead Pub area, near the top of the talus. A cool reach out left, a few crimps and then hold the body tension to top out. Fun.
This problem got it’s name after an epic struggle with a 500 pound boulder that was cramming the landing area. In this video, Jesse Redden makes the first ascent. Shot in late March 2003.
I worked a long time on this one. I just couldn’t seem to find the first right hand crimp. It’s a really fun problem all the same. Jesse Redden got the first ascent in March 2003.
Stew takes a good fall as he makes the crux move onto the slab. FA: Rik Logtenberg, 2003
This is probably my favourite problem in the Lionshead area of Robson. It’s in the Main Room on the same boulder as Black Owl. The problem starts on decent crimpers and the lunges right before another right crimp and left side pull to an okay high step and then a long throw to an okay [...]
Jesse Redden might be the only person who has climbed this problem. It’s really crimpy and kinda painful. Jesse got the first ascent in February 2003.
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