Route Updates for Waterline

There are eight new routes at the Waterline walls in Castlegar you should know about including a 5.12/13 tour de force put up by Mirek Hladik on the Valhalla Wall. For access directions to Waterline, see page 47 of the West Kootenay Rock Guide.

The Raven Wall

See page 47 of the guidebook.

Lauryn’s Line 5.8+/5.10a                   SPORT

Located at the far left of Raven’s Wall Left, above Kathryn’s Crack. (P. 47 in the guidebook.) Approach either by a new trail up from Scallywag, or by starting on the old trail to the top of Raven’s Left and then follow the pink flagging across the scree slope. The regular route has four bolts and follows the face, rib, ledge and then crack. The direct finish is a 5.10a and goes through two bulges past 5 clips total. See photo below. (K Ridge, H Mutch 09)

Lauryn's Line, Raven Wall, Waterline

Shady Lady  5.10a             SPORT

Starts opposite to Lauryn’s Line. Short and steep. Finishes on possibly the only chickenheads at this area. This climb sees sun late in the day. (C Chatten, H Mutch 10)

Nathan Law  5.12c               SPORT

Start as for Scallywag but instead of moving towards the arête after pulling the first roof, continue up the overhanging face to the thin, left-leaning crack above. (JT Croston, A Kristiansen 10)

Go for Gold  5.11a               SPORT

Start as for Scallywag but stay left after the first bolt and pull a small roof, then transition right to gain the steep arete. Rejoin Scallywag at the last bolt. Shares an anchor with Scallywag. So named because it was first climbed on the same day the Canadian men’s hockey team one the gold medal final at the 2010 Winter Olympics. (C Shute and JT Croston 10)

Project

In 2009 Dave Sturpin put up a line between Newlyweds and Brad’s Corner. As of press time it’s unclear whether Dave completed it but there are rumours it goes at 5.12. There are anchors at the top. Below is a topo.

Dave Sturpin's project on the Raven Wall, Waterline

The Valhalla Wall

See pages 52-54 of guidebook

Feast or Famine  5.12+/13-              SPORT

Located beside VPO on the overhanging arete. Mirek says it still needs one bolt on the bottom but a #2 cam will suffice for now. (M Hladik, J Ray 10)

CBC Wall

See page 51 of guidebook

Nostalgia  10d/10a                       SPORT

This climb is located on the buttress just left of CBC Wall and crosses “Sad Goat” in the middle. (p. 52 in the guidebook.) P1: Follow the 6 bolts to a 2-bolt station on the half-way ledge. (5.9) P2: There are 2 choices: Continue straight up the buttress, using a burly lunge/dyno move which is 5.10d, and the obvious crux, or walk 10 feet left on the ledge to a second 2-bolt station. Climb back right across the brown wall to join the direct line above the crux. (5.10a) Both take 5 or 6 clips. The route ends at the bolted station for Sad Goat. A 70m rope will have you off the route in one rap, otherwise use the mid station. (H Mutch, A Kristiansen 09)

Down Wind To Base  5.10b                         SPORT

This route is found on a short buttress at the top and to the left of the CBC wall. To reach the climb either climb Sad Goat or Nostalgia and then prepare for some thin and balancy moves. Five bolts. (A Kristiansen 09)