Madame Butterfly 5.10a sport – Waterfall Wall

M Butterfly, Waterfall Walls

Madame Butterfly 5.10a sport (two stars, we’re not biased!).

FA Mike Curran and Hamish Mutch, July 24, 2010; 60 m rope required (pitches are just under 30 m each)

Approach - from access trail for the left side climbs at Waterfall Wall, go across sloping ledge and follow trail which dips down across sloping grass and herbs the then angles up towards the Hummingbird Wall (buttress) – the climb starts to the left of a large Ponderosa Pine at the base of the buttress, above the highway (see photo, some more photos may follow when someone else climbs it).

Pitch 1 - start left and below of first bolt, which can be clipped by stemming up the corner on the left if you wish, otherwise step right from this corner onto a small ledge and climb up the arete, which is broken at first. Follow arete as best as you can, often stepping left onto the face for exciting exposure – there are a variety of climbing techniques required but always good foot holds and fixed protection. Belay from top anchor of M. Guillotine, beside the Ponderosa pine tree halfway up the arete.

Pitch 2 - again start left and below first bolt and work your way up the face side of the arete before cutting back onto arete at second bolt (an anchor for our future climb on the face below). After this, enjoy the nice holds and scenery as you climb bolt-to-bolt to the top anchor which is reached by moving right on a large ledge at the top.

Descent - rappel or lower from top anchor to top of Madame Guillotine, and then rappel down Madame Guillotine.

Enjoy a dip in the lake!

Some background history

This is one line we scoped out the route while doing M. Guillotine… Hamish did a lot of the cleaning on the lower pitch, BUT forgot his climbing shoes on our first ascent day (but at least remembered his drill!). Nonetheless, he did follow the route in his running shoes – so keep that in mind as you do it! (Now if we had been at CIC, he could have easily gone back home and retrieved his shoes while I was doing some more cleaning, ha!)

PS, if you wish more adventure you can always try the 5.4R/X climb we did on the top RH side to get to the top anchor ledge… just remember those small bushes you sling MAY (or may not) slow your fall down . . .