Ice Climbing at Slocan – Jan 2010

Last Saturday there were seven, repeat seven, climbers out on the ice at Slocan. That’s more than most days in the summer. Who’da thunk it? When our posse of five arrived, we were slightly surprised to spot two others [earlier risers] finishing the approach scramble. They turned out to be group members JT, and Margo the famous Rockies ice climbing icon. They were headed for the left-hand flow, which appears to be unnamed [?], leaving us the right side, Home By Noon [HBN]. If the left side is indeed unnamed, we would like to suggest the name of Just Another Quickie [JAQ], as this seems to fit well with the idea of being HBN. However this is very presumptious of us, as we have not even done the climb, let alone made the FA. Anyone know if it is named or not? Any other ideas? With increased interest in the area, it would be a good idea to get some names nailed down, as it were, to avoid future confusion.

The forecast had been for mixed snow and rain, but fortunately it was neither. On reaching the base of HBN, which is quite a wide flow, 2 of us started up the left edge, and three on the right. The temperature was somewhere from +3 to +5, and the icicles and larger daggers which cap the route were beginning to drip water, while some smaller ones went tinkling past us. This gave us some great plastic ice, wet gloves and pause to reconsider our options. When we were all gathered at the top of the first pitch, discretion for once prevailed over valour, and we decided to bale. Two V-threads [also known by some as Gorbachevs, ha! ha!] were rapidly built, and down we went. Meanwhile JT and Margo had finished both pitches of their line, and were also rapping off. Intros all around, and then home by four, after a quick roadside inspection of Enterprise. Looks fat.

Notes for the pix:

1. View from the highway. The roped and unroped starts to the approach scramble. HBN is the flow at the top right, while unnamed [JAQ?] is top left. That’s way up top.
2. JT belays at the top of the first pitch. It’s steeper than it looks.
3. Beating the first pitch of HBN into submission. In no particular order, Dave J, Kyle R, Ken L and Bill M.

Note to AK: There is NO eye-candy in any of these pix!! NONE!!

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