Gimli’s South Ridge
Mt Gimli is the centerpiece (centerpeak?) of the Valhallas. First climbed in 1973 by P. Koedt, P. Rowat, N. Rowat, G. Shannon, and J. Hamlin, the South Ridge is one of the best climbs of it’s grade in the Kootenays. It’s certainly one of the most famous. This was my, and my partner Scott Meyers, first trip up the classic East Ridge. Depending on your start, the crux can be pitch one (5.10) or the roof pitch (5.9). All pitches are extremely well protected. Overall, it’s outstanding cracks and face climbing (5.7-5.8) until the roof pitch (5.9) and an easy 5.5 to the summit. Hike off to descend.
Note: I originally referred to this climb as the East and Southeast ridges. Thanks To David and Cam for correcting me. Also, I originally said that P. Koedt and J. Hamlin were the first ascentionists. Thanks to Cam for correcting me on this one too.
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I thought the south ridge was the classic!
Thanks David. I have corrected the name.
It’s most definitely the south ridge, and your note on the first ascensionists should have included all of the following: P. Koedt, P. Rowat, N. Rowat, G. Shannon, J. Hamlin.
SEE CAJ 1974 pp. 56-59
Thanks Cam, I have corrected the first ascentionists.